I have to restart Up Studio 3 to get it to come back. selecting filament type) makes it lock up and frequently force close. Wifi seems to be crazily unreliable on this printer. Wifi drops all the time and Wand server force closes I've also checked and re-seated the black FFC ribbon cable to the X-axis stepper assembly, but the problem remains. Prints are at standard speeds and settings. Not excessively hot, so it doesn't seem to be overworked. I've checked the stepper temperature with a FLIR camera and to the touch - it's about 45C when this happens. This can be "resolved" in one of two ways: Power cycle the printer, at which point the X-axis comes back to life, or go into Information and hit Reset to reset the printer. The picture below shows the result of this - the horzontal mess closest to the camera is when it stopped working and the one further back is where I moved the X-axis out of the way by hand to see what was going on (the white stuff on the build plate is gluestick residue). The extruder head can be moved by hand freely while the Y-axis and Z-axis continue to function. Mid-way through the print, at a random time, the X-axis just gives up the ghost and stops working. This has resulted in failed prints for each of the fourteen prints I've attempted on this printer so far. X-Axis stepper gives up mid-print, every print I suspect I have a hair-trigger sensor - I get a flash of the red LED on acceleration and deceleration of the head, or even with the lightest of touches in any direction with my finger. I then removed and reseated the extruder head and subsequently got wild results, until I gave the head a gentle knock and it went back to normal. Cables are out of the way and unfouled.Įdit: On a hunch, I removed the filament and feed tubes from the extruder and got more consistent results. There are no stray bits of plastic on the bed. The end of the nozzle is clear of filament. Everything is tightly fastened and secured. I'm not sure why this is the case, except to suspect that the strain guage method of detecting contact with the bed is inaccurate. You can see the results of seven sequential runs here: On the wonky 2mm-out runs, measurement point 10 barely moves the Z-axis down before registering a hit. Each time I perform auto calibration I get one of two results: something sane or something about 2mm out with a single zeroed value (measurement point 10). I have manually levelled the bed as instructed, initialised the printer, and then performed auto calibration. I am getting endlessly inconsistent results of auto calibration. two mainboards fried in the same place, according to a post on the Tiertime new forums). I'm curious to hear if anyone else has experienced similar problems or any other type of issue? (e.g. As a result, this printer is completely unusable. Unfortunately I've experienced fundamental problems with the Cetus 2 that have resulted in failed prints every single time. As a happy owner of a modified Cetus3D MkII I had high hopes for this printer. The perforated print boards are useful for printing materials such as ABS, PC, PP etc, as it allow the print to root into the surface therefore providing firm adhesion to prevent warpping.I received my Cetus 2 a couple of days ago and installed it today. It can be clamped onto the heate build platform by using provide clips. The White marked below is for using 3rd party power supply provided by users.įork shaped terminals are soldered on the other side of the cable, convient for connecting to 3rd party power sources. The 4 pin power connector is for use with the 220W power supply from Tiertime. The new power supply will be connected to the extension board to power the heated bed and at the same time connect to the mainboard to power other part of the machine. Therefore users need to have a suitable power supply to support the upgrade. The original 90W power supply is not enough to drive the heated bed and printer. Move the platform backward to the very end of X axis, make sure the ribbon cable is not stretched. On the Extension PCB side fold the ribbon cable so its metal pins are facing outward (opposite to the PCB). Press fit the cable tide into the extrusion slot, locking the cable in place. On the other side, fold the cable like this. Insert ribbon cable from heated bed through the space between Z-motor and Z-bracket. Install Heated Platform onto the X-axis linear rail slider. Install the Heated Build Platform onto X-axis: User can either buy a 220W (output: 24V, 9.16A) power supply from Tiertime Store or use a 3rd party power supply of 24V with enough power. Extension PCB must be installed, please refer to this article for details:Ĭetus MK3 Upgrade Guide for Extension PCBĢ.
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